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old 52 bug
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52split
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 8:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

some pan work


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52split
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 8:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

a bit more.these are og pans the passenger side does have some weak areas behind the drivers seat. need to think about section in small bits from an oval pan or some green pans?any one know if oval pans are the same up to a certain year?


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52split
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

front end pics. will need some help here if someone knows where i can get a horn for the rubber snuber to weld in to repair the front end. these horns are longer than the spare link pin front ends i have to rob from. the earlest one i have is from 59, not sure if oval are the same length?


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JB
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need pre 55 pan sections, the stamping changed the most around the battery.
As far as the beam torsion stop, just narrow and throw some adjusters in, problem solved....no need to search for obsolete split parts Wink
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52split
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 05, 2012 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the info josh. its a lot easier to build custom for sure, i will go stock as far as i can go.lowered with brms is possiabe.any one know what years spring plates and torsion bars are the same as split. oval to 55 as well? my bars and plates were rusted the plate on one side not even on the stop Shocked any one have spares for sale?


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JB
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Plates and torsions will work out of any year swing axle bug..... The end caps and bushings need to match. Difference between the 3 diff. lengths over the years will be weather or not they extend out past caps.
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52split
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 5:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i do have new repo torsion covers coming from finland and was told that split bars and spring plates changed oct 52 for zwitter and oval. need to confirm to see whats different, maybe spline size and length, any one have an oval bar length. not been able yet to get time to press out the bar from the spring plate yet but i think my length is 21 3/4 inches.
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JB
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That guy is making some super nice stuff! Those caps were non existent!
The spline size was the same it was bar diameter that changed the spring rate. I think you are correct on the 21 3/4" length and if so i have a spare set of 19mm in that length (i think?) as I have some big fat 28mm ones going into my 55
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52split
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 10:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

no luck on bar removal. tried with a friends 50 ton press only got one out and the other the spring plate bent.i have never come across this with any cars i parted out over the years.does any one have ideas on how to find spot welds to remove,cant see any , or the best way to remove these bumper mounts? thanks


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stude
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
no luck on bar removal. tried with a friends 50 ton press only got one out and the other the spring plate bent.i have never come across this with any cars i parted out over the years.does any one have ideas on how to find spot welds to remove,cant see any , or the best way to remove these bumper mounts? thanks


try soaking it in 10% molasses and water for a month then try again
Terry
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52split
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 4:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

that sounds like a leg puller. Confused
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haywirebutton
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

molasses, tabasco and vinegar and if that don't work try pissing on it
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stude
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 7:47 pm    Post subject: check it out. Reply with quote

http://www.google.ca/search?q=molasses+and+water+rust+removal&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&sourceid=ie7&rlz=1I7GPEA_en&redir_esc=&ei=2m2cUI-BOJG6qQGn0YHYDA#q=molasses+and+water+rust+removal&hl=en&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&rlz=1I7GPEA_en&prmd=imvnsfd&source=lnms&tbm=vid&sa=X&ei=222cUI36BZD_rAGJpICABg&ved=0CAwQ_AUoAw&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&fp=81fb478a7c7030ef&bpcl=38093640&biw=1024&bih=616
Terry
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52split
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

given her a lift up, a buddy's got a jeep chassis thinks it would be the only 4x4 split around. sure beats looking for plates and bars and such. Wink


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JB
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 10:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey man, good BS'n with you there while back..... I'd give up on those plates....even if you did get it separated that snout is rotted away on end and new bushing will most likely be sloppy in there?

As for those rear bumper mounts hard to tell from pic but it looks like whoever raced those did an alright job....too bad they are late mounts! It would be nice if you could just remove the bracket and leave the sheetmetal behind it not messing with the rear apron (assuming it is OE?) but I'd be surprised if the metal behind those brackets is good? Not a big deal if not...easy contour to make patch and butt weld in, just gets some early brackets from Wolfe, they are nice! As for the spot welds i doubt you'll grind any....more than likely was plug welded and ground down. Don't even bother trying to drill plug/rosette welds out....it won't end nice! Do like I suggested cut the majority of bracket off with Zip disk leaving the flange then grind it down paper thin (usually will turn blue just before you break through) then start peeling back and you will find the welds...dress them down and voila

Wholly novel batman! Good luck and I like the bucket stand!

Josh
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