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VVWC :: View topic - Pan Off resto custom..
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Pan Off resto custom..
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imtehaze
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 1:24 am    Post subject: Pan Off resto custom.. Reply with quote

Hi everyone,

I'm in the process of carrying out a pan off resto job on my 74 super. The heater channels are all gone and need to be replaced.. so do the pans.. I'm planning to reinforce the shell with some cross members so that when I take it off, the body stays true.. Only then I'll get the car blasted and primed.. Now this is the first time I'll be trying this out..

Anyone who's done a similar job in the past? Anything else that I should know of (or be careful about) before I get started?

Any help/advice would be highly appreciated..
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Ovalzealous
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How good at welding are you? Good welding skill will help you here.

Have you seen this site?
http://members.tripod.com/~groupeffort/converted.html
Ignore the part where he tells you to use a flux core wire. It will be too hot for sheet metal. Use a gas equipped Mig.

I have done this before. I left the doors in place and marked them before I removed the channels. Braces are better but do the door openings and across the car as well. Do one channel at a time. Is the entire channel rusted or only part? I ask because sometimes I feel it is better to just patch the rusted areas than put an aftermarket thinner channel. Cip does have a vw of mexico heater channel. But it is more costly.
You will also want some thin cutoff discs to trim out the sheet metal. After that you just need patience and perseverence. But really thats the hardest part.
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imtehaze
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 11:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the post and the link to that website.. Very interesting.. I'm not very good at welding but I'm planning to pick it up along the way and also get some help from friends of mine.. I alreay have one door taken out. I'm having some problems with the door on the driver's side.. I'm hoping that won't be too much of a problem.. As far as the heater channel goes, I don't think they can be patched up.. Too much rust.. Also, while I'm at it, might as well get the job done right..

Thanks again..
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Ovalzealous
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2005 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If say 25% or more of it is gone then use a complete new heater channel. But take a look at where the rust is and maybe it will be easier to use a patch panel. Especially if you only need the bottom plate.
Here is a diagram of parts you can get.

http://www2.cip1.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1879

Here is another good article on heater channels.

http://www.superbeetles.com/Tech_talk/aug2.htm

And another on pan half replacement.

http://www.superbeetles.com/Tech_talk/jul.htm

It would be a good idea to practice on some sheet metal before you lay into your bug. Something that may help you on areas like the quarter panel, where you have a large flat area that you don't want to warp, is to do short welds and hold a block of brass or copper behind the weld as a heat sink. This will also help for welding up small holes.
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imtehaze
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 03, 2005 12:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many thanks again.. Appreciate all the useful comments.. I'm really looking forward to taking the body off the pan ASAP so that I can have a much better idea of the extent of the rust areas..

Thanks again..
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Ovalzealous
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 03, 2005 1:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Body removal.

http://www.superbeetles.com/Tech_talk/jun.htm

Don't forget to remove the steering dampner. Ask me how I know.

A useful book is the haynes restoration manual. I got mine at Bow-Wow.

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=HAN%2DF603
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imtehaze
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2005 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mission accomplished!! Very Happy

Had some troubles with the steering box that was in the way when I was taking the shell off.. Else, it was pretty straight forward.. Once I removed the last bolt, the front springs simply pushed the shell off the chassis.. That was quite exciting..

Now, the real fun starts!!

Thanks again Ovalzealous for all the help..
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Ovalzealous
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 2:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're welcome. Keep us posted. I expect you will have more questions.
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woodsy
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PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2005 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey everyone

I am also doing a similar rebuild on my 65 bug. Is there a type or manufacturer to look for when buying replacement parts for the body and pan? Also when putting in the new pan halfes do I run a bead around the entire pan or just tack it every so often? If tacking the pan what do I use to seal it with ??

Thanks for your help Woodsy
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Ovalzealous
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PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2005 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the inside edge of the pan you only need to weld 2" stitches, not a continuous bead. Or you could do plug welds if you want it to look more correct. To seal you need seam sealer from an autobody parts store. I have heard the 3M stuff is good. It usually comes in a tube for caulking guns. As far as panels go danish ones are better but just get the thickest ones you can find. I think cip1.com has some Vw of mexico panels.

There is a good article here-

http://www.superbeetles.com/welcome.htm
month 6 of Tech talk with Rick

Hope that helps.
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woodsy
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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2005 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey

I also have some repair work to do on the body ie heater channels. would i stitch and seal like the pan or is there another procedure for these. Keeping the body square is important I know, so where is the best place to put braces and what measurements should i take .

Woodsy
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Ovalzealous
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PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2005 1:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the links I posted earlier in this post, you will get a better idea of what you are up against. But in the case of heater channels you will likely be drilling out the old spot welds so it is easiest to just do plug welds, in the holes you drilled, onto the new heater channel. For places like the base of the B-pillar you will have a continuous bead. If you are new to welding sheet metal you will quickly learn you must be careful with how much you weld at a time. If you weld too long of a bead the metal will warp or more likely burn through. It is best to do small tack welds along a joint and progressively fill in. Once the part is in place and your tack welds are 1-2 inches apart then you may weld between them.

Hope that's enough info for you.

Later.
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woodsy
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2005 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Once I have the pan halves welded and sealed to the tunnel. What is the best thing to do to ensure I never have to replace them again. I have had the tunnel sandblasted and primed and the halves are already painted. Should I prime everything again and paint it all? I am looking for a gloss or semi gloss look what kinda paint should I use any suggestion or experience doing this.

Woodsy
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Ovalzealous
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2005 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The best thing would be powdercoating. Next best would be to get it primed and painted with some automotive grade paint. But I have heard good things about hammerite or if you can find it, Endura paint.
The paint that comes on most repair panels is poor. Ideally you would strip it off and prime and paint it.
You could also use a zinc primer to begin with but make sure it will work with your paint.
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SteveU
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2005 10:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Call me at work 250-383-8000 or if you're coming down for the BBQ at my house on Saturday, ask me about it then. There are lots of options...many of which I sell, and I offer a smoken discount to Club Members. We even have a store in Campbell River.

Steve U

Manager,
Cloverdale Paint
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