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Special K's 1978 Super Beetle Build
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lmar
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 30, 2020 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VW Magic

What else can you call it?

I had my turbo Miata parked behind the VW Convertible for the last 3 months.
Everyone who has walked by and commented on the cars - always inquire about the VW bug. Had a realtor showing a house in the area stop in front of my driveway to ask what I'm doing with the "bug".

I have a sports car that has 6X more horsepower, painted in a screaming blue (when in the sun) "look at me" color, looks like it is going 100 MPH when parked, yet everyone ignores it and asks about the beetle (or punch buggy as one kid did).

Even people who don't know cars stop and ask about the "cute" car on the wooden stand.

It's a kid magnet - which also means its a mom magnet as well.

40 years ago my first car in high school was a 1970 single port VW bug. All the cool guys had the 70's Mustangs, Chevelles, etc... Who knew that the VW beetle convertible was a chick magnet?

If only I"d known then..........



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panel
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 30, 2020 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^ made me laugh Laughing
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lmar
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2020 3:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The things you have to do for decent convertible doors.....

Got the two pair for a smoking good deal.

Pluses:

1. Don't have to weld up rearview mirror holes on the driver's side.
2. Don't have cut and weld in bottom door replacement panels.
3. Don't have to replace vent window sheet metal mounting metal and associated inside door skin.
4. Don't have to buy hard-to-find convertible door rearview mirrors as they came with door assemblies.
5. Internals are somewhat rusted and work (replace door scrapers people - save you grief in the long run). Between two pairs of doors, I should be able to clean up one set on each side to make a go of things.
6. Was able to free up the seized lower hinge on the passenger door using lots of penetrating oil and an adjustable wrench as a "handle" to wiggle things free.
7. I don't have to weld the cracks at each corner of the window openings.
8. These doors are unmlested and don't have speaker openings.


Minuses:

1. Someone decided to install the vent window and rear window supports incorrectly. Cut metal to fit the "adjusters" on the outside of the door skin versus where they are supposed to be (inside the door skin).
2. Took me 20 minutes to disassemble the first door and 3 hours for the second.
3. Ended up having to destroy the adjusters on both guides as corrosion had seized the threads into the guides.
4. Will have to fix "cuts" in inner door skins where someone "slotted" the hole to improperly install a non-adjusting adjuster.
5. There go 3 hours of my life - where I could have been working on the bug in a "meaningful way.
6. Still ahead having to replace metal skins on other set of doors.



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lmar
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2020 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Loonie and Toonie Patches

I use the following method to patch most holes that aren't near an edge.

1. Open the hole using a step drill to create and clean the needed hole size. Unlike normal twist drills, step drills are made for thin sheet metal and produce a clean hole without trying to "grab" and tear the hole as a twist drill would.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-titanium-nitride-coated-step-drill-2-pc-0540657p.html?rrec=true#spc

The left one is the most practical as you can get the hole size you typically need with the minimal depth required behind the panel.

2. Measure and clean your patch panel material (both sides) with a stripping wheel or grinder if required.

3. Using a Toonie or Loonie (or quarter) draw out your circular patch with a fine tip sharpie.

4. I end up using a stud welder to zap a stud in the approximate center of my marked circular patch.

5. Use "sharp" aviation snips I start cutting straight lines tangent to the marked line. Repeat continuously until you just touch the sharpie line.

6. The first use of the stud is to chuck it in a drill. While rotating the patch with the drill I introduce the edge of the patch to a 4" grinding wheel. This has the effect of "turning" the patch which

a) Turns the series of straight edges into a round patch.
b) Does so evenly to perfectly match the drilled hole.

7. Using the stud on the turned patch check the fit against the hole you are trying to patch. Repeat the drill/grinder trick until the patch just drops into the hole.

8. I then put a "dish on the patch by placing the circumference on the correct sized socket and tapping down on the backside of the patch with a ball-peen hammer.

9. Only a small crown is needed as it will tend to "flatten" when welding in the patch. Additionally, it is easier to heat and "shrink" the patch level when grinding down the welds.

10. The purpose of this type of patch is I can build different sizes based on the area I need filling and can "turn" them faster than building a square hole.

I'll take pictures of the welded patch tomorrow if I have time to haul out the welder.

Oh yeah. The pan was sent to U-Blast It today to be stripped down to the bare metal. In addition, 4 fenders, a hood, deck, and 4 sets of doors went with it. Will be picking up on Tuesday as I have to head up Island for Sun/Mon.



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lmar
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2020 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Today everything except the body was returned from the sandblaster.

It immediately was placed on a trailer and whisked to a paint booth.

Sand, masking tape and anything else that trapped abrasives was removed prior to being blown out with high pressure air. Once the sandstorm subsided, the parts were placed in the booth and the pan was rolled into the booth.

The "wheelbarrow" idea for the pan was favorably commented on by numerous people who had to "interact" with it. Mine was the first frame the sandblaster did not have to manhandle into or out of the booth. As a matter of fact, when I went to pick it up it was propped up at the back of the booth. It had been "flipped" over to get to the bottom metal.

Parts have now been wiped down and await primer tomorrow morning (didn't have enough time to do this before quitting time).

Note - I had sandblaster "profile" external sheet metal. What this means is that the surface will be very rough after epoxy primer. The idea is I can add body filler over the areas I need to while allowing for protection of the underlying metal and a "tooth" for the filler.

Rational: when removing paint from the second set of doors I noticed there was a layer of rust under the body filler. The idea is to have a layer of "Direct to Metal" paint that will protect the metal substrate no matter what I put over it. Primer surfacer will fill in areas that do not need filler.

Same rational was used for the "pan". I want full protection prior to welding on pans (seams on either side of tunnel). Any water that might get between sheet metal will encounter epoxy primer and weld thru primer. Seam sealer is just another layer of protection as will be the chip guard.



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lmar
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2020 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Epoxy Priming is done.
Went with a "buff" colour just to be different.

My son came over from Vancouver to give me a hand on his sister's car.
He gets gun cleaning duties.

Picture of back of doors was included as I thought they looked cool.



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lmar
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2020 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thinking of switching to 3M PPS system.

https://www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/collision-repair-ca/paint-preparation-system/


Rationale: There are a lot of times I want small batches of paint to "spot" paint metalwork I've done during the day. Usually, end up with 1K spray bomb instead of the 2K primer that I want to use.

Was introduced to the 3M PPS system today. Didn't use it as my gun wasn't set up for it. Immediately took a shine to it - especially when the micro size was shown to me.

The amount of time to clean a standard gun is eliminated as well as plastic waste and solvent.

Will look into this as it will allow me to paint small parts almost as easy as using a spray bomb.

Note - When I asked how much a new spray gun would cost I was told there are adapters to allow standard guns to accept this system. Wait what....?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTglp4-borM&feature=youtu.be&ab_channel=3MCanada

Will look into it tomorrow if I have time.
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Bow-Wow
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2020 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

lmar wrote:
Picture of back of doors was included as I thought they looked cool.


Wait a second. How many doors does this car have?

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lmar
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2020 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bow-Wow wrote:
lmar wrote:
Picture of back of doors was included as I thought they looked cool.


Wait a second. How many doors does this car have?


Two that came with the car that had rust/structural issues.
Two that I purchased recently that are in very good shape.

Since both were stripped I elected to primer both so that I could do repairs at my convenience.

Either that or I am building one of the uber-rare 4-door convertibles that are like unicorns.
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lmar
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2020 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The front Brakes have been refurbished.

New wheel cylinders, pads, installation kit, etc.

Had to spot weld new star adjuster tabs to the backing plates.

Bearings packed and bagged.

Have to build a bearing race installation tool for the outer races as I don't have any sockets that will fit.

Just have to clean up mounting hardware prior to installation on spindles.



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lmar
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2020 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fired up welder today.

Wanted to use it as a test run for setting up the welder for sheet metal and to get some practice in as I haven't welded for a couple of years.

Started off by welding up the holes in the heater channel where the previous owner decided to use wood screws to hold the carpet to the floor.

Granted the channel was messed up - but wood screws?

Removed the carpet hold-down strips and plug welded up the screw holes.
Ground down area and primed (just to keep rust at bay for the next couple of weeks).

Moved on to welding up spot rivet holes on the front hood seal channels that I removed previously.

Once I was back in the "groove" I decided to weld in the patch for the hacked alternate radio antenna hole on the passenger side cowl area.

The picture shows first pass welding. Note - I do not try to weld entirely around the patch. I'll grind it down at this point and then fill rest.

Rational: I am not dumping heat into the patch by welding on top of existing welds. It also reduces the amount of heat generated when grinding small mountains multiple times - rather than large gobs of metal.

I think results speak for themselves. Patch is shown with standard primer.
No high build or filler was used at this time as I just wanted a layer of protective paint.

Thinking of filling in the driver's side antenna hole as well. The last person "bent" the hole in to accept a "blob" of body filler. Also looks like they took a set of aviation snips to the hole to open it up.



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lmar
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2020 4:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Radio Antenna Delete.

Decided the bogged hole had to go. This one was tricker as it curved in 3 directions. Took a lot more trial fitting to get it to fit properly.

Called over the neighbor's 15-year-old and asked him if he wanted to learn how to fabricate and weld in a hole patch.

He never MIG welded before so I gave him some instructions and said go-to it. I had welder dialed in so I knew it was just a matter of him learning the technique.

Took him several tries until he got the hang of it (Wait for the puddle and cup the weld area to block out the wind from disrupting shielding gases)

The first picture is what we started with (trimmed and cleaned up with step-drill).

The second picture is the first welding pass

Note - the last 3 bottom welds. He got the hang of things. It is also where he started snipping the "ball" at the end of the wire before the start of each weld.

The third picture is the first pass flex wheel.

The fourth is the final finishing wheel pass.

The fifth is rattle can primer.

Thought he did a pretty good job.

Seemed to enjoy himself.



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lmar
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 22, 2020 11:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

PARTS ARE HOME

Will store poor doors on body- remaining components go into the top spare room of the house.

Pan will have to live outdoors during winter (covered up).

Trying to weld in pans and then properly finish paint/coat before winter.

Psychological boost seeing properly primed part on car. We are adding things back onto the car rather than removing them.



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WCP
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 22, 2020 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

man - i feel excited for you!

i hear you on seeing parts at least in primer. as soon as i got my bus in primer, i felt like i was in the home stretch.
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