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VVWC :: View topic - Front Wheel Camber Issues.
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Front Wheel Camber Issues.

 
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Wongai
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Joined: Jul 11, 2012
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 11:18 am    Post subject: Front Wheel Camber Issues. Reply with quote

So here is another one for you experienced guys.

As you can tell by the photo, my front wheels are rock'n serious camber issues. I'm hoping for zero camber without the body on.
I re-shimmed based on the offsets as per the shim chart, so I can confidently say that it is shimmed correctly. I am aware that one should not adjust camber with shims, but I wanted to state the obvious for the sake of diagnosis. People have also told me that it will correct itself once I put the body on the pan, but I don't believe this is true.

I didn't build this front end, and I don't know who did. I don't even know who manufactured this beam. Does anyone have any idea what is wrong with this setup?

Please note...

Both front wheels are off center by the same degree.
I know my shop floor is not perfectly level (but it's not that bad).

Any ideas? Anyone?

Thanks all!
Byron



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JB
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Common problem with aftermarket. Narrowed beams, good on ya for not just running it as is....will be twitchy as hell! First level your chassis....These measurements are useless without starting square! With all 4 tires on floor adjust by shimming with thin plywood or metal under tire (remember to roll pan back and forth a few times and up onto shims not using a jack! This allows the suspension to settle. Once you have it level left to right measuring off the bottom beam tube (front to back rake not important for this) you can now create a level surface on your floor next to he front tires as well (just a strip where you pictured the framers square) to measure off of as well.
If you want to get really fancy spend the $40-50 on a digital angle finder....hell even an oldschool magnetic protractor works wonders here! You can go off the flat face on your wheels.
Never measure off of the tire....bulge, wear and manufacturing differences give you shitty measurements. Best place is actually the outside lip or the rim (after making sure they're not bent!)

True you cannot correct that camber by shimming and it won't change by weight of the body (rear will front not so much!)

Most likely the problem lies in......
A: top and bottom torsion tubes of beam not the same length
B: torsion leaves not dimpled correctly

To check look at the red bushings, is there a gap anywhere? Should be snug fit, no clearance between bushing and end of beam tube and between torsion arm and bushing, also measure the width of the exposed red bushing.... They could be off (read Chinese eurathanes).if there is a gap then whoever drilled or dimpled the torsion spring packs for grub screws fucked up....you can usually flip the pack over 180 and re drill proper. If that all checks out remove
The spindles and arms/bushings and with pan re leveled left to right put a straight edge along the faces of the top and bottom beam tubes to see if they are parallel, if not carefully scribe 360 the difference and grind so they are flush, reinstall everything (after re checking the shim chart and making adjustments as things will have changed)

Let us know what ya find!
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Wongai
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for taking the time to offer a thoughtful and thorough reply.

I'll use it as a checklist and start ticking things.
I was really feeling stranded so I appreciate the detailed instructions.

I'll post again when I have a read on things. AWESOME!

THANKS AGAIN!
B
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hawthorne
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if u measured the trailing arms where the link pins go through and the spindle sits against and that is within the shim spec sheet and then shimed acording i wouldnt think it is a beam issue as josh is describing... spindle bent? wheel bearings properly adjusted? I understand having a narrowed beam that is built wrong, but if the trailing arms measure up within spec with a straight edge then i would think the beam/trailing arms are out of the question no?
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Andrew Hawthorne
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Wongai
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Joined: Jul 11, 2012
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2014 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hawthorne wrote:
if u measured the trailing arms where the link pins go through and the spindle sits against and that is within the shim spec sheet and then shimed acording i wouldnt think it is a beam issue as josh is describing... spindle bent? wheel bearings properly adjusted? I understand having a narrowed beam that is built wrong, but if the trailing arms measure up within spec with a straight edge then i would think the beam/trailing arms are out of the question no?


I have a buddy who agrees with you Andrew. I think I'll go though the process that Josh suggested just to be sure I'm working through all potential issues.

If I fail, then I guess I'll buy new spindles and see if that fixes the issue. Seems like an expensive experiment though.

If that fails, then you'll know by the way I'll be skipping around the road with a terrified look on my face. Smile

Thanks for all the good ideas guys.
Byron
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JB
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2014 3:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

very good point andrew, mind kinda went off on a tangent there haha...gotta be something bent in this case if you are certain that your shim setup is on the money. OR the drop spindles were machined all squeewif .....thats been known to happen on our good ol offshore stuff too!! there are factory tools for checking torsion arms, spindle carriers and spindles themselves.....kinda pricey to invest for the average dude but search the net for pics of them and how they were used and you can simulate by welding angle iron and old link pins to something as a checking jig......thats what I did when building my custom lengthened/offest torsion arms
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Wongai
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 10:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Al good. Any ideas are good ideas at this point.
I rechecked the shims again last night and they are "correct".

Do you think any of the VW shops would have the tools required to check for bent/poorly made spindles? Perhaps I can pull them off and take them in to get checked. Short of that, I'll look into making a jig.

Oh well, no one said it would be easy.
Thanks again guys. I really appreciate it!
B
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curtisvitoria
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Joined: Nov 03, 2011
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 1:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello sir.

Looks like that beam is one that I built a while back, it was on a 1960 Beetle project that I had.
PM me for details
Thanks
Curtis
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